PHOENIX (By Tamara Holt) August 18, 2006 — One of my first jobs was as a waitress at an El Torito Restaurant. To this day, I can tally its seven flavors of margaritas at breakneck speed. I used to think that made me an expert on Mexican food. In reality, I only knew about heavy trays laden with cheesy burritos, over stuffed chimichangas, and obscene portions of nachos.

Is Mexican food healthy? Apparently not. The Center for Science in the Public Interest's highly publicized 1995 report on Mexican food told us that it's loaded with fat and sodium. But exactly what "Mexican food" was the CSPI discussing? The report focused on popular American restaurant chains such as Chi-Chi's and my old friend El Torito, and not on the food of Mexico, which is an exquisite and varied cuisine full of high-fiber complex carbohydrates, vegetables, and pungent fresh flavors. Indeed, it's a well-rounded cuisine with all the makings of a healthy diet.

So it seems that there are two "Mexican foods": the traditional cuisine that's low in fat and rich in nutrients, and the Americanized version. Believe it or not, the latter can easily be made lighter and more nutritious. On the following pages, I'll introduce you to both types of cuisine, and show you how the elegant flavors of Mexican cooking make up for all the fat we take away.

Spanish and Mexican Roots

When the conquistadors arrived in Mexico looking for black pepper and gold, they found the native Indians. They also found beans, corn, squash, tomatoes, avocado, peanuts, potatoes, and turkey - none of which Europe had ever seen. These ingredients made up the traditional diet of the Aztecs, which was very low in cholesterol and high in nutrients.

Mexican food has changed significantly since the sixteenth century, of course. With the Spanish came wheat, pork, beef, chicken, and the first dairy products. They also brought the technique of rendering fat, which yielded lard and the concept of frying. The Mexicans enthusiastically incorporated frying into their cuisine and used the lard to make their tamales much lighter in texture - and much higher in cholesterol.

The specialties predominant in American-style Mexican restaurants, such as burritos, deep-fried tacos, and flautas, are what is known throughout Mexico as "northern cuisine." It is the northernmost region of Mexico bordering the United States in which flour tortillas, beef, cheese, and other less refined flavors took their strongest hold. But this is just a tiny aspect of Mexican food and its exciting array of ingredients.

Get Flavor, Not Fat

It's not the cheese but the flavor that makes Mexican food so popular. Americans love the spicy tomato sauces and salsas that are supplied at their favorite chains. But the combination of tomatoes, jalapeños, and onions is just a fraction of the brilliant array of Mexican ingredients.

The flavors in Mexican dishes do not range simply from mild to spicy. They are far more sophisticated, incorporating the smoky earthiness of rich moles and the bright freshness of citrusy marinades. Tangy flavors of lime, tamarind, and vinegar; spices such as cloves, cinnamon, and cumin; and herbs such as epazote, oregano, and fresh coriander (cilantro) give Mexican food its varied and seductive flavor.

Chiles, the cornerstone of Mexican cuisine, exist in hundreds of varieties, from the gentlest Anaheim peppers to the boldest habanero. They are green, red, or brown; fresh, dried, or pickled; mild, biting, or fiery. And they abound in almost every dish.

As I always say, an abundance of flavor is the best instrument for a healthy cook. With so much satisfying flavor, no one misses the fat.

How Healthy Is It?

Dishes based on fresh ingredients such as vegetables, fish, and fruit, are naturally healthy. The ingredients that make up the Mexican cook's palate are some of the richest in antioxidant vitamins A, C, and E, and in cholesterol-free protein.

The cuisine includes a variety of beans, which are rich in protein and fiber. Corn, when combined with beans or prepared as masa for tortillas, becomes an excellent source of protein and other nutrients. Tomatoes are a superb source of vitamins C and A. Varieties of squash, such as pumpkin, provide abundant vitamin A or beta carotene. Avocados and the seeds and nuts that make up the traditional moles are the best sources of vitamin E. And there's more to the chile than heat: Chiles are some of the best sources of vitamins A and C.

Salsa is all vegetables and flavor, and nothing could be better. Feel free to dip your chips in any tomato salsa, commercial or homemade. Who says Mexican food isn't healthy?